THE BEAUTY OF NHAT BINH SHIRT – A DISTINCTIVE COSTUME OF VIETNAMESE CULTURE

The Nhat Binh shirt is a unique cultural symbol of the Vietnamese people. This is not merely a garment, but also carries the traditional values, spirit, and history of the nation. In this article, we will explore the Nhat Binh shirt from various perspectives to appreciate its beauty and profound significance.

I. What is Nhat Binh shirt?

Similar to the Tac shirt, the Nhat Binh shirt is a traditional Vietnamese garment that appeared during the Nguyễn Dynasty. This is a luxurious outfit designed for queens, princesses, concubines, and noblewomen. Therefore, every design detail of the Nhat Binh shirt is very meticulous and refined, with intricate patterns that exude elegance and grace when worn. Especially, the Nhat Binh shirt is also divided into many types, patterns, fabric materials, and styles to distinguish ranks.

The Nhat Binh shirt is the everyday attire of the queen and princesses and the ceremonial attire of the court ladies. The Nhat Binh shirt is a type of split-collar garment, with a rectangular collar, and below the chest, there is a strip of fabric that ties the two sides of the dress together. The traditional outfit Nhat Binh shirt appeared during the reign of King Gia Long and lasted until the end of the Nguyen dynasty. During that period, regardless of whether they were empresses, princesses, or concubines, they all wore the Nhat Binh shirt gown and the round turban.



Origin of the Nhat Binh shirt

The Nhật Bình dress was born in the context of a feudal society with a strong influence of Confucianism. The origin of the Nhat Binh shirt is the Phi phong dress from the Ming Dynasty, which was adopted and reformed by the Nguyễn Dynasty into the style with unique and very distinctive features. At that time, clothing not only reflected social status but also represented a person's morality and dignity.

Wearing the Nhat Binh shirt robe is not only an external appearance but also a way for women to express themselves in society. The loose, comfortable robe fits perfectly with the gentle steps of the woman. Thus, the Nhat Binh shirt gradually became a symbol of gentle and graceful beauty.

II. Hierarchy in the Nhat Binh shirt of the Nguyen Dynasty

From the 6th year of Gia Long's reign (1807), the Nguyễn dynasty had regulations regarding the Nhat Binh shirt for empresses, princesses, and concubines in terms of color, material, patterns, and accompanying accessories (such as gold brooches, phoenix brooches, phoenix hairpins, and floral hairpins).

Regarding colors, the Nhat Binh shirt of the empress used the primary yellow and orange; the Nhat Binh shirt of the princess used red; the second rank of concubines used peach red; the third rank of concubines used purple; and the fourth rank of concubines used light purple...

Regarding the material, the royal robe of the queen is made from precious golden silk, while the robes of the princess, second-rank consorts, and third-rank consorts are made from silk and dyed according to regulations.
The accompanying accessories are also ranked by status: The Empress has 2 Nine Dragons gold brocade, 1 Nine Phoenixes gold brocade, and 8 gold phoenix hairpins; the Princess has 1 Seven Phoenixes gold brocade and 12 flower hairpins; The second-rank concubine has one Five Phoenix gold hairpin and ten flower hairpins; the third-rank concubine has one Three Phoenix gold hairpin and eight flower hairpins; The fourth-rank consort has one Phoenix gold hairpin and eight hairpins...

Development Through the Ages

Throughout the historical periods, the Nhat Binh shirt has undergone many transformations to align with the trends and aesthetics of each era. From simple garments to more complex designs, the Nhat Binh shirt has proven its enduring vitality. In the early 20th century, the Nhat Binh shirt was usually made from natural fabrics such as silk and cotton. This material not only helps the wearer feel comfortable but also exudes elegance. Nowadays, with the development of technology, the Nhật Bình dress is made from various types of fabric, but it still retains its traditional spirit.

III. Cultural Significance of the Nhat Binh shirt

It is called "Nhat Binh" because the pattern on the collar of the shirt is rectangular with two outer borders. The sleeves are embroidered with a five-colored pattern symbolizing the five elements (Metal, Wood, Water, Fire, Earth).

Nhat Binh shirt is the everyday attire of the Empress Dowager, Empress, and Imperial Concubine, and the ceremonial attire for those from the First Rank Consort to the Fourth Rank Concubine, with colors and patterns differing according to rank for clear distinction. One can mention the royal robe of the Empress, made from golden silk embroidered with 20 images of dragons, phoenixes, cranes, and peacocks. At the bottom of the robe, there are also exquisitely embroidered patterns of the three mountains and three waters.



The woman wearing the Nhat Binh shirt is not only an image of beauty but also represents feminine strength and resilience in life. Their roles in the family and society are always respected and cherished, and the Nhat Binh shirt is a testament to that.

IV. Design and Material of the Nhat Binh shirt

The design and material of the Nhat Binh shirt are two important factors that contribute to the charm of this garment. Each small detail brings a unique feeling to the wearer.

Traditional Design

The Nhat Binh shirt, although redesigned based on the prototype of the Phi Phong dress from the Ming Dynasty, still has many differences between the two models. This not only demonstrates the spirit of creativity and national pride. At the same time, it vividly portrays the characteristics of the culture. the culture of the Vietnamese. The clearest evidence lies in the patterns and the arrangement, coordination of the motifs, and colors of the shirt.

The shirt has its prototype as a collarless shirt, with a symmetrical design, a wide collar forming a rectangle on the chest, and a fabric strip under the chest tying the two flaps of the shirt. Scattered across the entire body of the shirt are also embroidered many patterns and designs, with the main motif being a closed circular shape interwoven with phoenixes, flowers, leaves, and sparkling sequins. On the sleeves, there is also a five-colored band: green, yellow, blue, white, and red, symbolizing the five elements.



Modern Trends

With the development of fashion, the Nhat Binh shirt has continuously evolved to align with modern trends. The new designs not only retain traditional elements but also incorporate modern factors, bringing a fresh perspective.

Young designers today are constantly innovating and experimenting with colors, patterns, and styles to make the Nhat Binh shirt more diverse and rich. This not only attracts the youth but also makes the Nhat Binh shirt an indispensable part of every Vietnamese woman's wardrobe.

V. Accessories that accompany the Nhat Binh shirt

The Nhat Binh shirt is usually worn with accessories. The most commonly seen are the buttons adorned with gold or made from jade and precious stones. The lower part of the sleeves of the shirt is further adorned with two long, loose ribbons called "dai thuy luu."

During the Gia Long period, the accompanying accessory would include a Kim for the Empress. During the reign of Emperor Thieu Tri, this golden ribbon was replaced with a golden phoenix. This accessory has also changed significantly over time. By the late Nguyen period, the accessories accompanying the Nhat Binh shirt were a round scarf.



As time went on, the Nhat Binh shirt underwent many changes, mainly towards minimalism. Some preserved photographs show that the Nhat Binh shirt from the time of King Dong Khanh onwards had many details and accessories simplified. At this time, the Nhat Binh shirt will be worn with wide-legged pants in snow white, and a large turban. The color of the turban can change according to rank, similar to before.

Conclusion

The Nhat Binh shirt is not just an outfit but a distinctive part of Vietnamese culture. With its exquisite design, diverse materials, and rich styling possibilities, the Nhat Binh shirt has established its position in the hearts of fashion enthusiasts. I hope that through this article, you have gained a deeper understanding of the Nhat Binh shirt and the values it brings. Let's preserve and promote this cultural beauty in our daily lives!